보신탕 (Bosintang)

Another threshold was crossed in the consumption of this meal. I had psyched myself up for this days in advanced. Even as I walked to the restaurant, I knew what I was doing and at that stage I was okay with it. I sat down with an air of fake confidence and ordered the dish. The lovely Korean lady that served me checked my order a couple of times with a surprised look on her face. I affirmed.

After she hurried off to make the dish I sat there and the full weight of what was about to transpire got me. And it got me good. My appetite vanished. My stomach turned into a knot. My pulse quickened. I searched the room longingly for an easy exit; they’ve run out of stock, I’m feeling sick, a big group needs my table. But alas nothing gave me respite from my situation.
I distracted myself with the B-grade 80’s action flick Broken Arrow on the TV nearby, and whoever the main actor is. I’ve seen him so many times but for the life of me I couldn’t remember where or in what films, let alone his name.

Then it arrived.

I’ve heard the smell is strong and off putting, but not to me, I didn’t notice it.

I wasn’t hungry but I begrudgingly started my meal as I had come too far to chicken out. I slowly ate the boiling hot slightly spicey soup.
Over the next hour I slowly ate most of the meal and a few sides, plus another soup offered as ‘service’. Pausing every now and again to remember exactly what I was eating and why I would do such a horrible thing. Also to watch some more Broken Arrow – John Travolta was the bad guy.

It wasn’t bad at all, I’ll even say it was tasty. The meat was akin to beef except much more tender and succulent. The color and taste I found very similar to beef and it only looked marginally different. You could easily be tricked into eating this thinking it’s beef, but it’s not.

Once I felt like I had laboured enough as to not offend my hosts I slowly stood up and left.

Maybe it was the combination of too much soup, not being hungry, too many 80’s cliches and my mind working overtime but I felt queasy on the walk home. However that quickly subsided and so did the mental pang of what I had done.

Maybe you will hate what I have done (again) but I sleep just fine at night. I can justify it in every same way I did when I ate whale meat refer to that post if you have questions. This practice also has a long history dating back to as early as 400 AD – research it yourself. Right or wrong, good or bad, who is to say?

I don’t think I will eat it again unless I have to. Once is enough, I can now say I’ve eaten dog meat.

Bosintang 8/10 – no jokes here

What’s This Life For? ~ Creed (1997)

It’s been awhile since my last post. I’ve been doing life and stuff. I’ve been especially busy recently as I’m looking for my next job. This has reminded me of the pain in applying for jobs I experienced last year. Just as I was getting comfortable… So I thought I’d share a few experiences I’ve had that have affirmed my reasons in moving to Korea. Firstly to remind and motivate myself in going through this (hopefully lessened) pain of applying for jobs.

 

Alex the Russian

Contender for most interesting first impression of anyone I have ever met. Alex accosted me while I was on my lonesome, walking to Taekwondo. He took me a bit off guard by his sudden appearance. Alex wore double denim, jeans and a jacket. He had short jet black hair with a slightly receding hairline. He was slim yet had some physical presence to him, mostly from the way he carried himself. He also kept a small toothpick in the corner of his mouth in which he periodically took out then placed back during our conversation.
Somehow even with Alex’s lack of English and my very basic Korean we managed to have a decent conversation. The way we laboured over our points, wildly gestured and repeated ourselves during our conversation was a beautiful mess. I don’t think I’ve ever expected so much time and energy just to get to know someone and at such a shallow level. All I got out of him was the basics. But this would have never happened at home, and honestly I don’t think I would have spent that time and energy to get to know someone – too hard basket. But here, in Muju, South Korea, it was worth it.
Even in returning home I will have a new appreciation and respect for those with low English as I know how it is to be in that position, and how hard it is.

 

성이 (Songi)

Words fail to describe the face of this small Korean child. She could turn even the meanest person nice and melt even the iciest heart with just a look. Even at 8 or 9 years of age her cuteness level is well over 9000. I’ve taught her before and I see her amongst many past students every night at Taekwondo. But she really turned on the cute factor the other day. She just came and sat by me at the end of Taekwondo and we had this really funny conversation in my basic Korean and her basic English. Through the broken nature of our conversation we managed to discuss a lot of benign topics; taekwondo, school, studying english/korean, she even told me about her boyfriend at school (#scute). Sure I could have a conversation with an 8 year old in NZ, but there’s something magical in the awkwardness of being lost in translation. And I do the conversation no justice at all. It’s really something you have to experience yourself to understand.

 

Yea this topic doesn’t lend itself to cool photos, food, culture or a funny story but it’s little interactions like like this that justify my decision to come here. Packing up my life was hardwork. But I have learnt and experienced so much.

 

Is it hard to find a new job? Yeah.

Does it push you out of your comfort zone? Big time.

Is it stressful to move overseas? Of course.

Is it hard sometimes? Sure.

Is it all worth it? You bet ya!

 

Getting fed fruit by your girlfriends mother.

Have you ever had to do a hard math test that you only studied a little for? How about if you did it in a foreign setting with your girlfriends family watching you? That’s kind of how I felt.

I wasn’t too sure what to expect and wow was it a real Korean experience for me. The 1st birthday of my girlfriend’s nephew.

There was a grand buffet feast laid out. Small steaks delivered to us. A huge hall decorated nicely. A mini photo collage of Amin the birthday boy. Most people were dressed nicely, the birthday boy and his mother and father were dressed in full hanbok, traditional korean clothing. It was a big deal, much more fuss than we would make in NZ with our fizzy, Big-Uns (or burger rings), fairy bread, and ice-cream cake.

Alice told me later that the 1st birthday is a huge deal in Korea. It owes its beginnings to a dark part of Korea’s past. When Korea as a country was struggling and poor (unsure of the exact date) infant mortality was extremely high. It wasn’t common for children to live past their first birthday. Therefore it was a big deal for parents and family if they had any children that did live past that age. Of course now that is different but the tradition remains.

At one point the lights were dimmed and a slideshow was started. It was 8 minutes (or two poorly chosen English songs) long. I’ve seen and made a few slideshows in my time and this was one of the strangest for me. At a 21st birthday it’s common to see a slideshow of photos to show off/embarrass the birthday boy/girl. To show what they have done and achieved  in their life. I personally made a slideshow about my grandfather at his funeral, showing again what he had achieved and done. But what has a 1 year old boy done? There weren’t a shortage of photos believe me. But as for achievements, pooping his pants, eating and dribbling were about the extent of it. I don’t mean to poo-poo (excuse the pun) Amin’s party or his moment to shine but I found it peculiar that 60 people were engrossed in this slideshow of a one year old.

The charismatic host was about to face his biggest challenge of the day. Calling out number “92” of the prize draw I was more relieved than disappointed to find out I didn’t win. However my girlfriend won with number 92. With that she trust the ticket into my hand and told me to go up and claim my prize. After a bit of back and forth I reluctantly went up.
I will never forget the share look of terror in the hosts face as we stood only a meter apart, face-to-face with 60 other people looking on.
He said something in Korean.

I said I had a little Korean.

He said something in Korean.

I said nothing.

He said something more in Korean.

I again said nothing.

He said “message”.

I said “Happy Birthday” into the microphone in a loud and slightly awkward way.

A few people started to clap.

I hurried home to the safety of my seat.

A few more people clapped.

 

Happy birthday Amin!

김아민 생일축하합니다!

 

튀밀복 장식 (Twimilbog Jangsig)

A fish made famous by the Japanese. More commonly known as Fugu or 복 (Beok) it is the puffer fish. The fish itself has a toxin that is deadly to humans and if not prepared properly can lead to death through ingestion. Approximately 34 – 64 people are hospitalized as a result of eating Beok every year in Japan and there are between zero and six deaths a year.. Although most deaths are from the fish being improperly prepared at home so I felt fairly safe eating it in the 복 specialty restaurant. Plus everyone in the resturant was acting fairly normal. There wasn’t people screaming in agony or a pile of bodies in the corner so I was lulled into a sense of security before ordering this dish. Turns out it was all justified and I didn’t die (spoiler alert!).

Some say they they can taste the poison but to me it tasted like fish. Pretty good fish at that. I’ve since seen these fish in tanks outside restaurants so you can pick your food.

All in all I loved the meal. I managed to make a 비빔밥 (Bibimbap) mixed rice out of the various ingredients, side dishes and fish. Would definitely eat it again, and I’m not a huge fan of fish or seafood so that says a lot.

Just don’t try making this at home.

I rate this 17/18 – the approximate number of side dishes we received.

 

The Plastic Bag Moments

As I hit six months since moving to Korea I want to pause and look back on my time. It has been AMAZING! I’ve said before and I will say it again  it was the best choice I have made in a long time and I stick by that. It’s been really tough at times but I’ve loved every minute of it.

With all this introspection and reflection about my time in Korea I kind of feel like the boy who filmed the plastic bag from American Beauty. Sometimes there’s so much beauty in the world … I feel like I can’t take it… and my heart is just going to cave in. It is in the snow that falls onto the streets of Muju, the crooked smiles of the elderly Koreans who with bent backs still walk delicately by the river and in the laughs and faces of the Korean children who still have their innocence in this ever more chaotic and demanding world.

This is all sitting in the corner and rocking to myself or fetal position material but I’ve held it at bay, for now.

Just before I left I was offered a job in New Zealand. It would be easy for me to sit here in South Korea wallowing in regret and wonder what life would have been like if I stayed. But I’ve chosen to focus my time and energy on the here and now.

It hasn’t all been easy. I’ve really been put out of my comfort zone many, many times and I’ve failed more than have succeeded but I’ve learnt so much in doing so. I’m a firm believer in learning from experience and I’ve had more than my fair share this last six months. And that’s how I would summarize my time here. Is that everything is an experience. A simple trip to the grocery store in New Zealand involved buying well known, tried and tested products, a predetermined path through the isles, remembering if I have milk left at home  (I don’t) and small talk with the checkout operator usually to the tune of the weather or if I’m ‘good’. Now I pick up products and stare at the picture to determine the contents, try in vain to decipher the Hangul, go on a wild goose chase for listed items, remembering if I have milk at home (I do), and engage in awkward smiles and misinterpreted conversation before leaving. And that’s just the supermarket, there’s so many more experiences like that everyday. It may sound a bit scary but once you get used to it and embrace the not knowing it’s fine, in fact it’s good, it’s a challenge. I love challenges.

Now I give you my top 6 experiences of the last six months (in no particular order).

• I found a girlfriend or 여자친구 (Yeojachingu).
• I went to the DMZ.
• I went to China and saw the Great Wall.
• I bought a pet snake.
• I had a total overall of my diet in a yum way.
• I’m learning Taekwondo IN South Korea.

Obviously there are many more but these stand out for their own specific reasons to me.

All bar the first one could happen nowhere else but Korea. What would be on my list if I had of stayed?

This only gives me further proof that I made the right choice which always helps me sleep a little better.

Thank you to those of you still reading. My blog says there’s around 600 people who have subscribed. I find that very humbling. Thank you for spending your most valuable commodity (time) reading and interacting with my blog I hope it’s helped in some way.

May the next six months be as eventful and beautiful as the first.

마석훈.